Chapter 5: Harvest

Marijuana Horticulture: The Indoor / Outdoor Medical Grower’s Bible

by Jorge Cervantes

The payoff for all the research, work, risk, expense, and the long, patient wait is a bountiful harvest. Strong, healthy, well-grown clones and seedlings yield the heaviest harvests. A well organized pre-harvest and harvest are essential to preserve cannabis quality and decrease the workload.

harvest when plants are at peak ripeness. Depending upon the high you like, which is discussed below, harvest timing is critical. The peak harvest window is open for about five to seven days.

Once harvested, most growers manicure buds before drying them slowly and evenly so THC is preserved. After drying, buds should cure to achieve full aroma and flavor. Like a fine wine, aging or curing improves taste and fragrance. Once cured, proper storage will ensure buds retain all their essential qualities.

Before Harvest

Fragrance is often a problem before, during, and after harvest. Control fragrance by keeping drying and manicuring room well-vented. If possible, allow plenty of fresh circulating air to pass thru the drying room to remove odors quickly. If air in and around drying and manicuring room is stagnant, odors linger and accumulate. Keep temperatures below 70F so essential oils in cannabis do not volatize and and release pleasant but unwanted fragrances. Contain cannabis fragrance in sealed drying and manicuring rooms. Filter air before expelling with a carbon filter.

Avoid the taste of organic or chemical fertilizers in harvested buds by flushing with plain water or a clearing solution to remove any residuals and chemicals that have built up in soil or plant foliage. Ten to fourteen days before harvesting, flush the garden with distilled water or water treated with reverse osmosis. Use a clearing solution such as Final Flush if you have to use plain tap water that contains dissolved solids. Some growers fertilize until three to fur days before harvest and use a clearing solution to remove fertilizer residues. Apply this water just as you would apply nutrient solution. Always let at least ten percent, preferably more, drain out the bottom of containers. If using recirculating hydroponic system, change the water after the first four to six days f application. Continue to top off the reservoir with “clean” water.

Do not water for one or two days before harvest. The soil should be fairly dry, but not dry enough that plants wilt. This will speed drying time by a day or more and not affect the quality of the end product.


Growth stops at harvest and THC content cannot increase. It will stay the same or decrease after harvest. Proper handling is the key to retaining THC potency. Prolonged periods of light, temperatures above 80F, friction from fondling hands, and damp, humid conditions should be avoided because they all decrease THC.

The THC chemical is produced in leaves, flowers, and stalked glandular trichomes, lovingly referred to as “resin glands” or simply “trichomes”. Stems and roots may smell like they should be smoked, but contain few mind bending cannabinoids, if any, and the resin is not very psychoactive. Male plants contain much less THC and are harvested before they pollinate females. Female plants are harvested when trichomes show peak ripeness. leaves are harvested first.

Growers hang plants upside down because it is simple, convenient, and effective – not to drain existing THC-potent resin into the buds. Also, boiling roots to extract THC is crazy.


Once the large leaves are fully formed, THC potency has generally peaked out. Smaller leaves around buds continue to develop resin until buds are ripe. Peak potency is retained, as long as leaves are healthy and green; nothing is lost by leaving them on the plant. harvest leaves if they show signs f disease or rapid yellowing that fertilizer has failed to cure. Once they start t yellow and die, potency decreases somewhat. This is true especially with fan eaves that grow before the buds. The large leaves turn yellow when nitrogen rich fertilizer is withheld during flowering.

Cut the entire leaf, including the leaf stem and toss it into a bag. Paper bags breathe well and can be closed by folding over the top. Plastic bags do not breathe, so the top must be left open. If the petiole is left on the stem, it shrivels and dies back. This little bit of dead plant attracts moisture and mold. Removing it will avoid mod problems.

Keep the paper bag in a closet or area with 40-60 percent humidity and 60-70F temperature. Reach into the bag once or twice a day and stir leaves by hand. Leaves should be dry to the touch in five to seven days. Once dry, place in the freezer to get ready to make Ice-O-Lator hash.

Male Harvest

Male flowers can produce pollen as early as two weeks after changing lights to the 12 hour day/night schedule. Watch out for early openers. Three to six weeks after initiating flowering, pollen sacks open and continue to produce flowers for several weeks after the first pods have begun t shed pollen. Once male flowers are clearly visible but not yet pen, THC production is at peak levels. This is the best time to harvest. Once males release pollen, the degradation process speeds up and flowers fall.

Harvest males carefully, especially if close to females. Cut the plant off at the base, taking care to shake it as little as possible. To help prevent accidental pollination by an unnoticed open male flower, carefully cover the male plant with a plastic bag, and tie it off at the bottom before harvesting. Or, if you can see an open pollen sack, spray it with water to make pollen unviable. Keep males used for breeding as far from flowering females as possible. Make sure to install fine screens for air coming into the flowering room and wet them down regularly to discourage rogue pollen. Isolate males until needed. After a month, the male plant will start reverting to vegetative growth even though it retains viable sacks of pollen. Males can also be coned and held in the vegetative stage until needed. Induce flowering about three weeks before viable pollen is needed. Within three to five weeks, the male will be full of viable pollen sacks.

Prolong male harvest by removing flowers with tweezers or fingernails as they appear. New flowers soon emerge after plucking old ones. Continue to remove pollen sacks until females are two weeks from full bloom. Picking off individual male flowers is a tedious, time consuming process, and it is easy to miss a few.

Harvesting most of the branches, leaving only one or two pollen-bearing limbs, is practical. A single male flower contains enough pollen to fertilize many female ovules; a single branch full of male flowers is necessary to produce enough pollen for most home breeding needs.

Sinsemilla Harvest

Sinsemilla flowers are mature from 6 – 12 weeks after the photoperiod has been changed to 12 hours. The best time to harvest sinsemilla is when THC production has peaked but not yet started the degradation process. Established indoor varieties are bred so the entire plant reaches peak potency at the same time. Lower flower tops that receive less light are not as heavily frosted with resin as upper branches and could be slower to mature. Varieties that ripen all at once tend t go thru four or five weeks of rapid bud formation before growth levels off. The harvest is taken one to three weeks after growth slows. Pure indica varieties and many indica/sativa crosses are picked six to ten weeks after inducing flowering, while indica crosses with more dominant sativas, such as Skunk #1, may not be ready for ten weeks. Commercial growers often pick immature six-week old buds so they can harvest one more crop every year.

Pure sativa varieties, especially Thai and Asian strains that were grown from native seed, take longer to bloom after turning the light to 12 hours. They could take four months to finish blooming! These types tend to form buds at an even rate throughout flowering with no marked decline in growth rate. Few indoor growers have the time or patience to grow pure sativa varieties because of their long flowering period, leggy stature, and low yields. Buds at the top of the plant often reach peak potency a few days to a couple of weeks before lower buds. Long blooming equatorial sativas may require several harvest.

Pistils turn from white to brown or brownish-red as the flower tops ripen. Pistil changing color indicates plants are turning ripe; however, it is not the best indicator of peak ripeness. After more hands n research, I have earned that it is difficult to tell peak ripeness by the color of pistils in all strains. The best gauge of peak ripeness is the color of the resin glands or trichomes.

Resin glands change colors as they ripen. At first, glands are clear. As they continue to mature, they turn a translucent milky color and, finally, they turn amber. Resin glands that are bruised from being squeezed or jostled about deteriorate quickly. All glands d not change color simultaneously on the same bud or plant. The process is gradual, and individual resin glands change at different rates. Of course there are exceptions such as the strain Blueberry, which bears darker, even purplish resin glands.

To get a close-up look at resin glands, use a 10X magnifying glass, jeweler’s loupe, or a 20-50X hand held microscope. My preference is a 30X hand held microscope with a battery powered lamp used by stamp collectors. Look at resin glands without harvesting buds, or take a small, thin, resinous portion of a ripe bud and place it under the microscope at a low 30X magnification setting. If the microscope does not have a lamp, a flashlight will be necessary for an un-shadowed view.

Resin gland development will be in one of three stages – clear, translucent or milky white, and amber.

Harvest when the majority of glands are clear and a few glands have started to turn milky white. Harvesting plants too early, before a few of the glands turn milky, will make them less psychoactive, because they hold less THC. Harvesting at this point will yield a cerebral, soaring, heady stone. The body will be less affected. Pure sativa and sativa-dominant strains are perfect for this harvest scenario.

Harvest when half of the trichomes have turned a creamy translucent color for absolute peak ripeness. At this point, the high will be both cerebral and physical with a good head and body stone.

harvest when the majority of trichomes have turned amber for a body stone. Pure indica, afghani, and indica-dominant strains harvested at this late point will possess a heavy body, or couch-lock, stone. Waiting to harvest pure sativa and sativa-dominant varieties until this stage will not take advantage of the strains. Such strains are best harvested when resin glands are clear to milky colored.

Harvest Step by Step

Step One – Stop fertilization seven to ten days prior to harvest. Latent nutrient accumulation in foliage imparts a fertilizer-like taste. Leach nutrients from the growing medium seven to ten days before harvest. Some growers continue to fertilize until three days before harvest if using a product such as Final Flush. Such products expedite flushing built up chemicals from cannabis plants.

Step Two – If sprays have been applied during the last week (not recommended), mist plants heavily to wash off undesirable residues that may have accumulated on foliage. The bath will not affect resin production. Gently jiggle buds after rinsing to shake off any standing water. To prevent fungus and bud blight, wash the garden early in the day to allow excess water on leaves to dry before nightfall. If bud mold (botrytis) is a threat, DO NOT wash buds.

Step Three – You may want to give plants 24 hours of total darkness before harvest. Many growers do this and say the buds are a little more resinous afterward.

Step Four – Harvest in the morning when THC content is at its peak. Harvest entire plant or one branch at a time by cutting near the base with pruners. Jerking the root ball creates a mess and is unnecessary. All of the THC is produced in the foliage, not in the roots.

Step Five – It is not necessary to hang plants upside down so all the resin drains int the foliage. Once formed, resin does not move. However, drying the entire plant by hanging it upside down is very convenient. When stems are left intact, drying is much slower.

Step Six – To harvest entire plants and/or branches: Remove large eaves one or two days before actually cutting the plants down. Or remove leaves after cutting plants. Harvesting large leaves early gets them out of the way and makes manicuring easier and faster.


One harvested, carefully manicure buds by cutting large leaves where they attach to the stem. Leaving the petiole (leaf stem) can cause mold to grow. Snip off smaller, low potency leaves around buds that show little resin, so a beautiful THC potent bud remains.

Manicuring is easiest when leaves are soft and supple immediately after harvest. Trimming off leaves now will also speed drying. Waiting until foliage is dry t manicure will make manicuring buds a tedious, time consuming job.

Manicuring is easiest with a good pair of trimming scissors that has small blades to facilitate reaching in and snipping off leaf petioles at the main stem. An ergonomic pair of scissors with comfortable handles is indispensable when manicuring cannabis for hour.

Manicure over a fine silkscreen or a glass table. Scrape up fallen resin glands on the table or under the screen. This potent resin can be smoked immediately or pressed int blocks of hash.

Wear inexpensive rubber gloves to collect “finger hash”. After trimming for a few hours, remove accumulated finger hash on gloves by bathing in small portion of isopropyl alcohol. Set the hash-laden alcohol on the counter overnight to evaporate. Scrape up the remaining hash after all the alcohol has evaporated. Or put the rubber gloves in a freezer for a few hours. Cooling will make it easier to scrape and rub the accumulated hash from gloves.

Scrape accumulated resin from scissors when it impairs blade movement. Use a small knife to remove built up resin from blades. Ball up small bits of scraped resin by rubbing it together between fingers. The ball of hash will grow as manicuring progresses.

Budget enough time to harvest and manicure your crop. Properly manicuring one pound takes from four to six hour by hand with scissors and one to two hours when using and automatic trimmer.


After harvest, marijuana must dry before smoking. Drying converts THC from its non-psychoactive, crude, acidic form to its psychoactive neutral form. In other words, fresh green marijuana will not be very potent. Drying also converts 75 percent or more of the freshly harvested plant into water vapor and other gasses.

When you cut a plant or plant part and hang it to dry, the transport of fluids within the plant continues, but at a slower rate. Stomata close soon after harvest, and drying is slowed since little water vapor escapes. The natural plant processes slowly come to an end as the plant dries. The outer cells are the first to dry, but fluid still moves from internal cells to supply moisture to outer cells which are dry. When this process occurs properly, plants dry evenly throughout. Removing leaves and large stems upon harvest speeds drying; however, moisture content within the dried buds, laves and stems is uneven. If buds are dried too quickly, chlorophyll and other pigments, starch, and nitrates are trapped within plant tissue, making it taste “green”, burn unevenly, and taste bad.

When dried relatively slowly, over five to seven days or longer, moisture evaporates evenly into the air, yielding uniformly dry buds with minimal THC decomposition. Slowly dried buds taste sweet and smoke smooth. Taste and aroma improve when pigments break down. Slow even drying – where moisture content is the same throughout stems, foliage, and buds – allows enough time for the pigments to degrade. Hanging entire plants to dry allows this process to take place over time.

To speed drying time, remove large leaves and stems upon harvest. Fresh supple leaves are easier to work with than when dry. When you are looking at manicuring 10 pounds you make it as easy as possible.

Plants with outer “fan” leaves intact take longer to dry and require much more time to manicure. The outer leaves from a sheath that helps protect delicate trichomes when drying, but this practice turns trimming dry leaves int a tedious, messy, two-step job.

Circulation and ventilation fans will help control heat and humidity and keep them at proper levels. You can also use a dehumidifier to control humidity. An air conditioner is ideal to “dial in” temperature and humidity in warm climates. large drying areas may require a heater to raise temperature and lower humidity. Do not train fans directly on drying plants; it causes them to dry unevenly.

For best results, drying should be slow. Ideal air temperature is between 65 and 75F and humidity from 45 to 55 percent. Temperatures below 65F allow drying, and humidity often quickly. Humidity above 80 percent extends drying time and makes the threat of bud mold imminent. Temperatures above 75F may cause buds t dry too fast, and humidity can fall below the 50 percent level more easily. Temperatures above 85F cause buds t dry so fast that smoke becomes harsh. Relative humidity below 30-40 percent causes buds to dry too fast and retain chlorophyll, giving them a “green” taste. Fast dried buds become crispy and crumble. Low humidity also causes buds to lose flavor and odor. If humidity is between 30 and 40 percent, allow for minimum air movement to slow drying. Always use an accurate minimum / maximum thermometer and hygrometer to ensure temperature and humidity are kept in the ideal range.

Small harvests can easily be dried in a closet, cabinet, or a cardboard box that is a fraction of the growing area’s size. Large harvests require much more room. If drying space is a problem, a staggered planting schedule, or planting varieties that ripen both early and late, carries over to a staggered harvest that frees up drying space as buds dry.

Large outdoor and indoor crops need large spaces in which t dry. You can use the grow area as a drying room if not growing any plants. Do not dry plants in the same room in which plants grow. Different climates are required for growing marijuana and drying it. Fungus and spider mites can also migrate from dead plants to live ones. Inspect drying buds daily for any signs f fungus, mold, and spider mites. Smear Tanglefoot around the end of drying lines from a barrier which keeps mites from migrating to live plants. Mites congregate at the barrier and are easy to smash.

A cardboard or wooden box makes an excellent drying space to hang small harvests. The air flow in the enclosed area is diminished, and buds and leaves must be turned daily to even out the moisture content and discourage mold. Thread a large needle with dental floss, and string the floss back and forth thru the box near the top to make drying lines. If the box is tall enough, you can install several levels of drying lines. Lock the flaps on the box and set it in a closet or spare room. Open flaps to allow air circulation as needed. or, cut holes near the bottom and top of the box to allow air exchange and circulation. Check daily to see how buds are drying. if tops dry too fast, pen the box-top and set the box in a cooler location.

Hanging plants is a labor-saving way to facilitate slow, even drying. Large, moist stems can also be removed and small branches hung from ceiling to cut drying time by few days.

Use clothespins to attach branches to drying lines, or poke a paper clip thru the base of branches and hang clip from line. Another option is to trim branches to form a hook and hang from the “hook”.

Use a portable foldable clothesline to make quick mobile drying room. Unfold clothesline, hang buds from lines, and cover with a large, black bed sheet or cloth. The cloth sheet allows the exchange of air and maintains darkness. Train a fan on the outside of the sheet so air circulates underneath and dries buds.

Building a small drying room is as easy as tacking some plywood together at right angles and hanging lines across the enclosure. Or you can make walls from black Visqueen plastic by tacking or taping it to the ceiling and floor to form walls.

Drying a large harvest can require a large space. If you have a large space such as a bedroom, barn, shed, etc, cut plants at the base and remove large leaves, and hang on drying lines in the room. Cut branches from 12-40 inches. manicure each branch and hang on drying lines to complete the drying process.

Save space by building r buying drying racks for the buds. Make drying racks from window screen or plastic agricultural netting. Stretch the screen or netting over a wooden frame and secure with staples. Put three to six inch spacers between framed screens to allow adequate airflow. Or build a drying box with removable screens.

hang manicured buds to dry for a day or two before placing on drying screens to allow the bulk of the moisture to dissipate. Once on screens, buds should be turned daily to ensure even drying.

Manicured buds can also be placed in boxes to dry. Move buds daily so new surfaces are exposed t air. Buds dry slower, because the air flow is reduced. Line boxes with plastic or aluminum foil to contain for collection resin glands that fall to the bottom. To contain resin glands, seal cracks in boxes with tape.

Drying time depends upon temperature, humidity, and bud density. Most buds will be dry enough to cure in five to seven days. Big, fat, dense buds can take three to four days longer. Gently squeeze buds after they dry for a few days to check for moisture content. bend stems to see if they are done. If the stem breaks rather than folds, it is ready to cure.

Check for dryness by bending a stem. the stem should snap rather than fold when bent. The bud should be dry to touch, but not brittle. The bud should burn well enough to smoke when dry.

Light (UV rays), heat, and friction hasten biodegradation and are dry and drying, marijuana’s biggest enemies. Keep dried marijuana off hot car dashboards and away from heat vents, etc. Friction and rough handling bruise and knock off resin glands. Even with proper drying and curing, brutal handling of harvested marijuana will diminish THC content. Baggies and fondling hands rupture millions of tiny resin glands in the world every minute! To keep dried marijuana in mint condition, store it in a dark, airtight, glass container, and place it in the refrigerator. Ordinary canning jars allow buds to be admired as well as protected. Glass containers do not impart any plastic or metal odors and contain the pungent fragrance of fresh marijuana buds. Placing an orange or lemon peel in the jar will add a citrus aroma to the bouquet.


Curing allows buds to continue to dry slowly. The first week of curing affects potency in that it evenly removes moisture within the bud so virtually all the THC is psychoactive. Curing also allows buds to dry enough that mold does not grow when buds are stored. Well cured buds have an even glow when burned and smoke smooth.

After plants, branches, and / o r buds have dried on screens or hung in a drying room for five to seven days and appear to be dry, they still contain moisture inside. The moisture affects taste and potency. Curing will remove this excess moisture. Curing makes the bud uniformly dry and converts virtually all THC into its psychoactive form.

Cut stems into manageable lengths – less than 12-18 inches – and place them in airtight container. Airtight glass contains with a rubber or similar seal are the best. Avoid Ziplock and other plastic bags that are not airtight. Plastic bags used for long term storage are airtight.

Enclose buds in a container to create a micro climate that allows moisture to even out within the buds. Internal moisture will migrate to the dry portions of the bud. gently pack as many buds into container as possible without forcing and damaging them. Leave the containers in a cool, dry, dark place. Check in two to four hours to see if buds have sweated moisture. Check buds by gently squeezing to feel if they are moister than they were a few hours before. Be careful when squeezing buds; resin glands bruise easily.

If stems fold instead of snapping when bent, and buds are still moist to the touch, remove them from the container and gently place in the bottom of a paper bag. They can be stacked in the paper bag as high as six inches. Fold the top of the bag once or twice to close. Check the buds two or three times during the day to monitor drying. Carefully turn them in the bag so that different sides are exposed.. Remove when they are dry and place back into the sealed container. Check them the next day to see if they are evenly dry. Stems should snap when bent. If too moist, put them back in the paper bag until dry. When dry, return to curing container.

If buds appear to have fairly low moisture content, and stems snap when bent, leave them in the container and let excess moisture escape out the top. Open the container for a few minutes every few hours to let the excess moisture escape before closing the lid again. At this point you can add an orange or lemon peel to the container to impart a slight citrus aroma.

Check the container several times daily. Leave the top off for five to ten minutes so moisture evacuates. Depending upon moisture content, buds should be totally dry in a few days to two weeks Once they are evenly dry, they are ready to seal in an airtight container for storage.

To find the approximate moisture content of dry buds, weigh a specific bud upon harvest when it is wet. Weigh it again during the drying and curing process to learn how much moisture it has lost. For example, a bud that weighs 10 grams upon harvest, will weigh 2.5 grams when it has lost 75 percent of its moisture. In general, a dry bud will weigh 75 percent less than its weight at harvest.

Freeze Drying

Dry ice is frozen carbon dioxide. When it warms, CO2 converts from a frozen solid to a gas, without turning into a liquid. When moist marijuana is enclosed with dry ice at virtually zero relative humidity, water molecules migrate from the cannabis to the dry ice. This causes the relative humidity of the CO2 t increase and the moisture content of the marijuana to decrease. This process occurs below 32F and it preserves cannabis.

Place equal amounts of dry ice and bud into container. Put the dry ice on the bottom and bud on top. Seal with a id. Make a few small holes in the lid of the container for excess gas to exit. Place in your kitchen freezer. Check every 12-24 hours. When the dry ice is gone, the buds should be completely dry. If not dry, add more dry ice until cannabis is dry. Conserve dry ice by partially drying buds for a few days before enclosing with dry ice.

This method retinas potency and freshness and causes very little degradation of resin glands from heat, light, air, and fondling hands. The smoke has a mint-like taste because the chlorophyll does not break down.

Packaging and Storage

Storing cannabis in an airtight environment will preserve aroma, taste, and potency. Use a vacuum sealer to evacuate air in glass jars. Inexpensive vacuum sealers are available in the canning section of grocery and variety stores. Growers report that containers sealed with inexpensive vacuum sealers work much better. When properly vacuum-packed, buds will stay as fresh as the day they were sealed in the airtight jar.

Vacuum seal the jar, and place it in the refrigerator for storage. Leave it in the refrigerator or a cool, dark, dry place for a month or longer. The taste and potency will be tops! Refrigeration slows decomposition, but remember, refrigerators have a high humidity level, so the container must be sealed airtight. Do not place it in the freezer. Freezing draws moisture to the surface of buds, which can harm resin glands on the surface.

Place sealed containers in a cool, dry, dark place. Some growers prefer to keep airtight sealed containers in the refrigerator. If the seal is not airtight, the low temperature in the refrigerator creates a condition of high humidity. Dry buds stored in a container that is not airtight attract moisture in the high-humidity environment. Before long, the buds are so moist that they must be dried again.

Seed Crops

Harvest seed crops when seeds are big and ripe. Often, seeds actually split open their containing seed bract. Flowering females grow many ready, receptive calyxes until pollination occurs. Seeds are fully mature within six to eight weeks. Once pollinated, the majority of female’s energy is directed toward seed production. Tetrahydrocannabinol (THC) content is usually of minimum importance. Seed crops can be left in the ground until seed rattle in the pod, but most growers harvest them before then. Watch fr and control insects, mites and fungus that attack the weakening female and her cache of ripe seeds./

Home breeders often pollinate only one or two branches. The unpollinated branches are sinsemilla. The sinsemilla branches are harvested when ripe. Seeded branches continue to mature for another week or two until ripe. When seeds are mature, remove them from the pods bu by rubbing seeded buds between your hands over a container. To separate seeds from marijuana, place harvested seeds and accompanying foliage in a large tray with sides. Move the tray back and forth and tip so the seeds congregate in one corner. Remove excess marijuana by hand and repeat the process. Rub seeds together in your hands to remove traces of calyxes that still adhere to seeds. Agitate tray and tip to congregate seeds and separate from chaff.

Store seeds in a cool, dry, dark place. The seeds are viable and ready for planting as son as they are harvested, but they may grow sickly plants. Let the seeds dry out a month or two before planting. Seeds with a hard outer cask are the most likely to sprout and grow well.


Rejuvenate harvested females by leaving several undeveloped lower branches with foliage on plants. Give her an 18/6 day/night photoperiod. The female will stop flowering and rejuvenate and revert back to vegetative growth stage.

Give the harvested, leafy, buddy stubs an increased dose of high nitrogen fertilizer to promote green, leafy growth. This will help the harvested plant grow more foliage as it reverts back to vegetative growth in four to six weeks. new, green, leafy growth will sprout from the branches and flower tops. Leaves will continue to grow more and more fingers as re-vegetation progresses. Let the rejuvenated plants grow until they are desired size before inducing flowering with a 12-hour photoperiod. If second crops are allowed to grow tall, they produce sparse buds. Remember, these plants are already root bound and when given dim light, sparse buds result.

Here is a possible scenario to rejuvenate plants. For example, a person who grew a beautiful crop of females and knew each plant by name, had to harvest. Instead of starting from seed again, the grower decided to leave a few leaves and buds on the harvested stubby branches. He induces vegetative growth with 18-hour days and 6 hour night the day after harvesting. A month later, he took many clones from these original favorite females. He induced the original mothers to flower a month after the clones were taken. The clones were rooted, transplanted, and moved into a flowering room. The original harvest was taken on January 1st. The second harvest was April 1st. The second harvest weighed less, and the buds were smaller. Taking clones from rejuvenated plants also diffuses hormones and severely stresses plants.

Marijuana Horticulture

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